Saturday, 9 May 2015

Rick Owens - A/W 15 PFW

(all photos from

Congratulations to the master who is Rick Owens, on the absolutely amazing Autumn/Winter 2015 collection, 'Sphinx', held at Paris Fashion Week. Set in the basement below the Palais Tokyo, the ambience was just right. The grey walls and stark floors corresponded well to the colour palette full of neutrals, and a collection focused on an out-of world experience mixing "his tribal, primal, sci-fi and creaturesque hallmarks". The ensembles played on the idea of shapes within the garments, as well as excessive draping (but with a twist, of course... these garments had drapes going in every direction.) Layering and the mixing of textures was also integrated within most of the designs, as with the distortion of proportion. 

Owens, after the show, stated that he'd "been looking at Frank Lloyd Wright's Hollyhock house and obsessing over it. I mean, what would you wear in the Hollyhock house? What clothes could possibly live up to that?" You can check out a description of the Hollyhock house here but in brief, it's a building with a "Mayan" aesthetic located in the East Hollywood neighbourhood of L.A. It is currently the centrepiece of the Barnsdall Art Park and has recently re-opened to the public following a restoration costing $4.4 million (ouch!)  I've been so linear for so long, so I thought let's just fall apart and collapse. And as long as I was doing that I thought let's indulge in sequins; I've always wanted to do sequins. I just knew it would take some time to figure out how to git it in to my universe so I had a minute this time and I'm glad I did - I just love them." I have to admit, I'm not usually a fan of sequins but it's quite nice and refreshing to see Owen's let loose and free himself of his "universe", as he describes it, whilst sticking to his trademark looks. It was a clear reference to the excess of Hollywood glamour. 

There was a definite structural appearance to the majority of the pieces, having the material fixed in places that material usually wouldn't fall. The shoulders were emphasised, peplums appeared in abundance and silhouettes were generally enlarged and voluminous with the help of inflated fabrics. The leathered structures at the front of some of the ensembles resembled breastplates and a fierce and protective feel to the garments, much like a out-of-space "warrior". Whilst the make up added a little femininity to the over all warrior vibe. The gold or silver leaf painted on some of the models faces resembled a mask or perhaps an extra protective layer of skin and mimicked the tribal Mayan masks, referencing the Mayan inspired house that the collection was based on.

What did you think of this collection? 

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