Tuesday, 5 May 2015

Jacquemus - PFW

(all photos from Vogue.co.uk)

Sorry for the super photo heavy post but I couldn't help it, as with this collection I feel like every ensemble is essential to see. What a start to PFW this was. This collection basically sums up why I believe that Simon Porte Jacquemus is one of the best designers at the moment, well one of my favourite to say the least (so my statement may have been a little biased...) Which makes me overjoyed that the "LVMH Prize jury announced that he had been included in their prestigious shortlist for 2015." His humorous and almost child-like-doodle designs challenge the likes of the other classy and elegant collections which are shown at Paris Fashion Week and I believe that the juxtaposition makes his collection even better, in my eyes, and stand out a lot more. The oversized dungaree's, the oversized fit, the colour blocks and the hand shape straps (which remind me of painted hand prints that kids do) definitely takes a tole out of child-play but done to a high and professional standard. All of these garments look messy and chaotic, but in a orderly way. Perfection. 

Porte stated that he "wanted poetry like that of a Michel Gondry movie, of childhood, of decoupages, a childlike woman again, not even, a sexless child. Who wears masks, puts makeup on and plays with making clothes. Clothes from her father, her mother. I wanted nature too. Primitive and naive, those are the words that I immediately wanted to attribute to this collection. Freedom also to do, to say and to have fun, spontaneously." I believe that Porte completely satisfied his motivations for the collection. The decontruction of basic pattern pieces and then the resulting reconstructing corresponds well to the idea of an individual having fun and spontaneous with the construction of clothes. The idea that it is the individuals parents garments links directly with the oversized feel. Alongside the parody clothing was some absolutely beautifully crafted every day wear. Cocoon coats, asymmetrical silhouettes and thick straps were just a few key features. 

It's the styling that completed this show for me. Some pieces, including the first one down the runway, were worn with nothing, using the nipple as a sort of accessory (#FreeTheNipple - am I right?) and the brown paper masks certainly caught my attention. The surrealistic make up, based on Berlin photographer, Sebastian Bieniek's "Doublefaced" series, was different to anything I have seen this season, or in any other recent seasons but in the collection, you can see little similarities between Jacquemus and the likes of Margiela and J. W. Anderson. 

Bravo, Jacquemus. 


  1. Something strange but stylish.


    1. Completely agree. So stylish! Thanks for reading lovely. X