Monday, 6 October 2014

PFW: 23rd September

Anthony Vaccarello

Paris Fashion Week starts with a bang. I've always been a fan of Anthony Vaccarello and combined with the amazing collection he delivered with Versace called 'Versace Versus' in New York a couple of weeks ago, I was imagining big things from him. He didn't disappoint. 

If I could explain the collection entirely in a few words, they would be the following - asymmetrical hems, mesh, leather, branding (which I would have thought was inspired or at least the idea was pushed by his work earlier on the Versace Versus collection which I have already mentioned), smart sailoring tailoring (with use of the breton stripe on multiple garments)... so basically everything. The first look featured 3 of the words just mentioned - a leather asymmetric skirt with buckles and studs paired with a sweater branded with his name and the season. The small block lettering on the sweatshirt transitioned into big letters, mostly in patent material, but less of them usually with just initials or a couple of letters. Vaccarello explained that "initially, it wasn't so much about branding as it was the idea of the graphics of the posters that we see plastered on the streets and through that idea the lettering just sort of followed naturally." The other predominant feature within the collection was the sailor effect, as subtle or obvious as they may be and many of the ensembles resembled that of a pirate outfit, but obviously more chic with slightly more sex appeal (or not if every pirate looks like Johnny Depp.)

What I liked the most about this collection, is the fact that it's so wearable and included many separates as well as dresses as he explained that he "wanted more pieces for the girls to choose from, not just dresses"! I would happily wear any of these pieces at any time of the day (ok... maybe not to go to bed but you know what I mean.) 


I was instantly glued to this collection when the deconstructed asymmetric white shirt and matching pleated shorts that came down the runway which showed a cheeky hint of colourful wide stripes on a visible pair of underwear.  The collection then transitioned and showed the wide stripes with pride, as skirts and high necked crop tops worn with over sized white shirts and slouchy trousers. The predominantly featured white as the base colour but also featured bright blue, light pink and navy. The collection had an overall beach-y theme, in the form of bikinis, seaside motifs, beach towel and deck chair-esque garments and parasol shapes. I can't help but think of the cute, classic little beach huts which I've forever wanted to try out, which explains the title - "Les Parasols de Marseille" - of this collection. 

Simon Porte Jacquemus  also played with an asymmetrical approach, as Vaccarello did seen above, which I think is a reoccurring trend that I have seen in almost all the fashion weeks and so will inevitably be a huge trend coming up to Spring and Summer. 

I loved this fun and playful collection and the models played to the theme of it too.

(photos courtesy of

Gee xxx

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