Tuesday, 23 September 2014

LFW: 14th September

David Koma

Koma's sleek, architectural style collection began with predominantly white looks with subtle hints of lemon yellow asymmetrically placed on the garments. In fact, almost all pieces in the collection (with mainly the exception of trousered looks) sported an asymmetrical hemline as you can see below. This kept the collection sexy and interesting as the "wonky" hemline gave some edge and quirkiness to the looks as well as allowing the garment to reveal a little bit of skin. The seductiveness of the show was emphasised by the use of corsetry, bralets and crop tops, sheer panels, cut outs, leather and the hour glass silhouettes that the full A-line skirts and waist clinching dresses suggest whilst also presenting a soft and feminine feel. As the runway continued, the yellow remained but was also at times swapped for multiple blue hues and the main colour of white transforms into a mixture of both white and black, mainly used with textured ribbed stripes. The collection was over all, beautifully cut and well tailored.

Mary Katrantzou

This collection caught my attention for 2 reasons: 1) my wanderlust 2) my love for geography as a whole and anything to do with the more specific topic of tectonics (as I already mentioned in one of my travel posts). According to Katrantzou's notes, the inspiration for this collection was "Pangea and Panthalassa" (for all you non-geography nerds, let me help you out - Pangea means "all the earth" and Panthalassa means "all the ocean") and the idea of Pangea splitting into the separate continents which people know and recognise today, which explains why I have written what I have above. 

The movement of the tectonic plates created almost a jigsaw of land and then the sea filled in around them and it is clear to see on maps where the continents fit into place if the plates never moved and her garments clearly show the inspiration as the evening wear, featuring palazzo trousers and matching tops as well as full length gowns, is full of panelling separated by sheer mesh representing the sea between the now parted land. 

The collection also focused on the idea of fauna with the frog and serpent embroidered mini dresses (some of which used "scale-woven python guipere lace") as well as playing with the idea of flora by weaving lace to "represent foliage" and delicately beading various panels on the garments in a very detailed and precise way to represent coral and tropical fish alike.

The colours are very natural and similar to that which you would come across when searching the forest or under the sea with the use of green, cream, pink and blue hues. 

Last but not least, lovin' the use of pleats... 

Apu Jan

If there is one thing I could say about this collection, it would be LOOK AT THOSE PRINTS. Aren't they just immaculate?! Ok I don't want to go on about geography for too long (I promise, this is the last thing I'll say on the matter) but some of the prints remind me of an arial view of a meandering river or the contours shown on maps and I just love that marbling effect made up of a variety of blues and black and greys. The other beautiful prints remind me of the sky, no fail and I just adore every single piece from this show. 

Marios Schwab

This statement and sophisticated collection had an androgynous tone to it due to the sleek and clean tailoring whilst also appealing to a more feminine audience by including chiffons and sheer floaty silks on his garments.

I die (seriously) for tuxedo style tops with plunging necklines. I find them super sexy whilst also classy with a masculine feel and this collection features them a lot, whether it be on box jackets, dresses, waistcoats or jumpsuits so keep your eyes peeled for that trend in the coming Spring/Summer.

(all photos from Vogue.co.uk)

Gee xxx

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