With this collection, it is not hard to see why Tait was the winner of the first LVMH prize. I love, for once, the bright colours he uses and the juxtaposition between them and the darker colours or more neutral colours he uses too for example he allows lemon yellow to shine through on the lapels of raw edged, navy leather coats. The bright colours made quite the impact (especially the red tuxedo jacket pleated skirt dress lacking a sleeve) whilst the more subtle colours which were used on the garments with a more intricate and interesting design created with folds made a completely different but nonetheless interesting and more architectural impact.
There is clearly an experimentation with balance in this collection as most of the garments lean more to one side than the other for example, the long right sleeve but short left sleeved dress or the asymmetrical skirts.
The cut outs and use of mesh also make a clear statement and almost act as an optical illusion in my opinion with the use of checks.
Christopher Kane
I liked Kane's use of colours... it was rather unusual for Spring/Summer. Burgundy and blue hues were used and although one could expect sky blue garments strutting down the runway for the coming season, navy and burgundy are more of a Autumn colour I feel (not that I'm complaining as I mainly wear dark colours, and Autumn is my favourite season... especially for fashion!)
I liked the materials too - satin, tulle, mesh, leather, chiffon... I could go on. I love the clash of textures but what I loved the MOST in this collection was the architectural feel caused by the cut outs and the mesh panels which were combined with accents of straight lines of material making it feeling like cogs or like the dress wouldn't hold up with out them, like the structure of the dress depended on them. The folds of other dresses also act like a 3D architectural feature. These features on the garments give a hint of masculinity to an over all feminine collection, emphasised by feminine silhouettes like plunging V necks.
Erdem
This collection reminded me of being in the beautiful rainforest in the Caribbean, many years ago, so how could I not LOVE this collection?! A source stated that "the show was dark, moody and tropical. The set was fantastic and it was as if we were watching the show in the middle of a tropical rainforest and the models were emerging from their natural habitat.
Saying that, it will not surprise you that the palette for this collection predominantly consisted of green and brown hues and Victorian lace and tweed were used with a mixture of other materials, many of which had been appliqued with flowers and/or leaves or feathered (if that is a verb??). Other than that, the show featured a lot of cream chiffon and floaty silk printed with dark green leaves, making an otherwise see through material, opaque.
The show took a very Victorian approach which resulted in high necks (when plunging V necklines weren't used) and long hems and thus, the collection was very classy and sophisticated, as you'd imagine coming from Erdem.
Youjia Jin
Being at London's Fashion Scout this week at LFW, I was amazed at the sophistication and level of the work displayed by Jin. According to a source, this show was based upon the idea of exploring the "innovative ideas, freedom of clothing and experimentation."
There was a mixture of shades, focusing on white, grey hues and in general, the collection was very androgynous. However, it included mesh and chiffon, plunging V necklines and pleats, creating a slightly more feminine feel to an otherwise masculine show. Perhaps, the meaning behind the show was to show the equality of women (which is a huge topic at the moment, especially with Emma Watson's UN He For She speech going viral) and that they are just as powerful as men... but who know?
Definitely one to watch... I'm thoroughly excited to see what Youjia Jin has to bring to the fashion world.
Antonio Berardi
Embroidery, beading and prints were displayed at an excellent level at the Berardi show. According to the man himself, he was inspired by "pictures he'd seen of small girls watching their mothers getting dress, "that innocent and excitement is captivating"" and an Albert Einstein quote - "The pursuit of truth and beauty is a sphere of activity in which we are permitted to remain children all our lives," was how the show notes began.
The prints were bold, abstract and absolutely stunning with an array of colours which complimented each other perfectly such as blue hues (royal blue and navy were in the mix) and olive or bright orange mixed with baby pink, deep brown and red. What was also extremely bold and stood out was his exaggeration of proportions which created an interesting, oversized silhouette whilst remaining feminine.
(all photos from Vogue.co.uk)
G xxx
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