Friday, 30 January 2015

Couture Favourites

Atelier Versace

I loved this collection. The first thing I feel compelled to stare at are the curves which seem to swerve around the body in all the right places, giving us a little "peek-a-boo" at the skin beneath. 

I want to express my thoughts about what the curves represent... and this is just my opinion. The curves may represent the current (as well as past, and most likely, future) issue surrounding body image and may be encouraging the audience to embrace their body size and celebrate curves. However, all of the models have the usual slim physiques which I think may be suggesting the idea that both curves and slimness are equally beautiful, which I completely agree with. I believe that the idea of "skinniness" is being shamed more than ever recently with no help from the current rage of this new song "All About This Bass" (or whatever it's called... I'm not a fan, whatever it is called) which does embraces curves, sure, but at the same time, skinny shames until you (well, I) want to bulge your eyes out. So perhaps, and this is a very far fetched idea (but the curves made me think about it), Donatella, wanted to prove to people that both curves and slimness have appealing features and there shouldn't be any more shaming of any size. Neither extreme is healthy but either is fine. 

As I said above, the curves are cut out of the garments in the very places that highlight the feminine silhouette and emphasise the natural curvatures which occur throughout a woman's physique. The curving statement would be nothing if it didn't feature on a typical Versace style figure hugging dress which made the tailored maxi dresses and other garments, such as jumpsuits, cocktail dresses and 2 pieces, appear almost more like a second skin that morphs around the body. Even the garments themselves had a curved style and pattern to them. The oversized buckles belts gave the mainly feminine looks, a masculine twist. 

Sleek for the most part, reflecting a 70s/80s hollywood look, Versace also injects a little 60s fun into the collection with crystal beaded symbols on short mini dresses paired with knee high boots. 

I'm currently doing a project at college about dissection and these garments remind me of both dissection and deconstruction too. The "half" dresses, as seen on Jourdan Dunn, reminded me of 2 different dresses being taken apart and rearranged and sewn back together. The removal of material around the curves which is replaced by nude mesh also reminded me of the idea of dissection. My project also focused on the idea of removal of garments which have been dissected in comparison to those of which haven't been. I observed people removing garments, and I noticed that people generally removed an arm first, which is probably what made me notice the "off the shoulder/top of the arm" feature on a fair few of the garments. I love it. Sorry about the rambley paragraph but it interested me so thought I should mention it. 

The last thing I want to mention is the colour palette which was a monochrome palette primarily, but then post box red and electric blue and also a lovely elegant nude make both a vibrant and subtle entrance into the collection.

Jean Paul Gautier

A huge fan of Jean Paul Gaultier for many reasons, one of the reasons being he puts a show on of all sizes, genders, colours, ages etc etc. which I respect HUGELY, and this couture season he continued this aspect of his shows. Another reason being that his looks are very theatrical and playful in my opinion. I love a designer that can have fun with his designs. 

The show was based on a wedding, aided by an appropriate song, and showed a whole host of ensembles, some of which were a mixture between bride and groom. The shows main colour palette was black and white or cream but also included brighter coloured featured on snakeskin. Tulle also made a huge appearance, following the theme of weddings. 

I just generally enjoyed this collection but I'm sleepy now so won't write anymore! 

Gee xxx

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