Monday 16 March 2015

Proenza Schouler - NYFW






















(all photos from Vogue.co.uk)

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez presented a fascinating collection at NWFW, inspired by the work of the American expressionist painter, Helen Frankenthaler and Robert Morris, a conceptual artist. The designers clearly translated Morris' felted panel installations to their garments with the sliced hemlines whilst they used their inspiration from Frankenhaler in a more subtle way, by recreating her freedom and free-spirit within her art within their designs, making the garments move freely and fluidly. 

Silhouettes were kept elongated and sleek and ultimately, fierce. Skirts or the bottom of dresses were loose allowing for maximum movement, whilst tops, or tops of dresses were generally either plunging deep V's, bandage-tight and straight across the chest or tight with long narrow sleeves which extended past fingertips. This collection showed a less sporty side to Proenza Schouler to what we're used to, but nonetheless, it was fabulous and more sophisticated than before. Materials included tweed, grey Mongolia, cowhide and boiled felt, and towards the end the collection featured a sheer material which added an extra flirty depth to the collection.  The sheer was juxtaposed by the embellishments which included beautiful eyelets and mongolia and feathered accents. The colour palette was mainly black, white and grey towards the beginning with raw cow hide print and scribble prints making an appearance whilst later on in the show red burst into the equation to compliment white and black. 

Gee x

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